A unique mix of cuisine, culture, and commerce come together in Greenwood, South Carolina, making it a great stop on a road trip through the Upstate or a home base for roadtripping through the Palmetto State’s Old 96 District and Freshwater Coast (Lake Greenwood and Lake Russell) a region know for its rich history and recreational opportunities.

Uptown Greenwood

Start your visit to Greenwood, in the heart of the city known as “Uptown”.  It’s an area that excites the senses starting with Main Street which cuts through the heart of it all.  Trees line both sides of this somewhat elegant “boulevard”  that gives this business district a wide open feeling. 

Two long rows of businesses catch your eye going down Main Street.   Modernized facades, wide green awnings and second level sidewalks create a unique setting for strolling through Greenwood’s stores, boutiques and restaurants. 

Start strolling at stores like Main Street Market and Sugar Boutique then keep going up Main Street to Main and Maxwell, a store best described as an upscale artisan market showcasing the talents of more than 40 South Carolina Artists.  For some more upscale shopping cross over to the other side of Main Street where you’ll find Blossom Shoes and David-Lindsey Clothier.

Greenwood’s Uptown Market is an impressive space.  On a visit there one Saturday in June, there were artists, farmers and food vendors set up at the Market. 

One of the vendors was Joe Trull of Grits and Groceries, a place I have become familiar with over the years thanks to the Euphoria: Food, Wine and Music Festival about an hour up the road in Greenville.  Joe and his wife Heidi (read my 2017 interview with her here) both have roots in the restaurant scene in New Orleans, including time spent working with Emeril Lagasse. It was great to finally get some Grits and Groceries treats outside of Euphoria.  The fried apple pie was especially decadent.

Dining options in Greenwood

When it’s time to eat Greenwood serves up abundant choices to please just about any palate. From good old-fashioned country cooking to fine dining, Greenwood has it all.  In fact, during my visit there were just too many places to choose from I need to go back to try some more restaurants.

 Breakfast may or not be the most important meal of the day. but it can often be the tastiest.  A few miles from Uptown Greenwood you’ll find the West End Café.  It’s a place you could easily drive by and not give a second glance, but doing that may leave you with regrets.  West End is small in size and big on flavor and big when it comes to breakfast.   Omelets, pancakes and traditional breakfast items are all on the menu, but the signature item is the toasted biscuits with homemade strawberry jam.  The hash browns were pretty good too.

Lunch on the Lake?  What could be better?  Break on the Lake sits on the shores of Lake Greenwood right as you get into Greenwood County.  The restaurant specializes in seafood and steaks as well as tantalizing views of the lake.   If you’re looking for something with more international flavor then head Uptown and give Buenavista Cuban Cafe which serves up great sandwiches and empanadas, and a Cuba Libre.

Brews and pizza certainly go together and the Millhouse and Good Times Brewing certainly know how to do both based on the crowds gathered in this Uptown Greenwood restaurant the night I visited.  I’m not a beer drinker, so I didn’t try any of it, but it was obvious people liked what they offered as the taps were flowing freely. And while the pizzas were coming out of the brick oven at a fast pace, I opted for a signature sandwich, called the Millhouse Original. It’s a melt in your mouth creation filled with roast beef, peppers, onions and mozzarella cheese with au jus for dipping.  For my side, I chose potato salad which turned out to be the best potato salad ever!

When it comes to BBQ, I’ve eaten quite a bit in my life and of course each region puts its spin on it.  At Fat Daddy’s in Greenwood I tried BBQ Hash for the first time.  Now, if you aren’t familiar with hash, it’s the basics of pulled pork BBQ with potatoes and some other things thrown in and served over rice.  In the case of Big Daddy’s creation, it was delicious.  This restaurant offers up lots o BBQ choices in a casual atmosphere.

Prior to COVID-19, the biggest food “ticket” in Greenwood was the Sunday Brunch at the Inn on the Square, the privately owned full-service hotel in the heart of Uptown.  On Sunday mornings, an events space was transformed into an elegant feast for the senses.   Beautifully decorated tables around the room were filled with everything from pulled pork and macaroni and cheese to fresh fruits and decadent deserts.  You could even get a made to order omelets or carved prime rib. Even without the Sunday Brunch, breakfast at Inn on the Square is still scrumptious with choices like bacon and eggs, brioche French Toast and biscuits and gravy.

Museums and more

Art and Culture play a big role in Greenwood.  At no time is that more evident than during the South Carolina Festival of Flowers in the summer.  If Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck were walking around amongst the dozens of topiaries throughout town you might think you were at Disney World.  The collection of floral creations might include elephants, tigers and a even a Chic-fil-A cow. The floral creations stay up through the South Carolina Festival of Discovery, a three day celebration of BBQ and Blues.

Year round, the Arts Center of Greenwood puts the local art scene in the spotlight.  Located in the old Post Office it is one of three components of the Uptown Cultural District along Main Street. I found the space quite impressive and the collection of artwork on par with what you would find at an art museum in a larger city.

On the same block as the Arts Center is a place telling the story of Greenwood that is simply called “The Museum.”  While most of the focus is on local history, you’ll find other things in the museum too.  One of the things I learned after my visit is why the Main Street area is so wide.  At one time a railroad ran along the same path and the downtown businesses located on either side of the railroad which is the focus of yet another museum in town, one that I did not have time to visit during my time in Greenwood.  Admission to both the “Museum” and the Arts Center is free.

A few minutes from Uptown, you’ll find a place with significant ties to the  Civil Right’s movement.  Benjamin Mays was born in Greenwood County to parents who were former slaves. His home now sits on a site with a small museum telling the story of how he helped influenced a generation to end segregation.  Mays was president of Morehouse College and a chief mentor to Martin Luther King, Jr. When you visit be sure and ask about Mays’ connection to Margaret Mitchell, the author of Gone with the Wind.  It’s definitely an interesting story that will stick with you for a long time.   

While you could spend all your time in Greenwood, there are other great places to explore while you’re in the area starting with the Old Ninety-Six National Historical Site, a place filled with Revolutionary War History.   Off to the west of town, consider spending a day checking out Abbeville, a place I think of as a “mini” Charleston complete with Civil War History, historic churches and plenty of brick streets.  Edgefield is also close by.  It’s compact town square and National Wild Turkey Federation Museum are sure to keep you busy.

Be sure and follow @knoxroadtripper on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook where you’ll find more pictures and stories from Greenwood, SC and nearby places. I also highly recommend checking out a fellow travel blogger’s post on the Inn on the Square at travelthroughlife.net . I absolutely loved my stay there.

*Old 96 Tourism hosted my trip to Greenwood with the Inn on the Square providing accommodations. All opinions expressed in this post are my own.